The story of Saint Cuthbert’s body being dug up and carried about the North of England for seven years to keep it safe from the marauding Vikings is one of those stories from school days that sticks.
Now St Cuthbert’s life is being celebrated by The Way of Light – a long distance walking trail – and a section of the scenic route is directly behind Hepple Hill Cottage. The Way of Light is one of six walking trails created to highlight the North East’s Christian heritage. An information board about the trail is a few yards from Hepple Hill’s gate.
The starting point of the 45 mile route is at St Oswald’s church at Heavenfield near Chollerford in Northumberland – the site of a battle in AD 633 where Oswald returning from exile claimed the throne and established the kingdom of Northumbria. The walk crosses farmland, woodland, and open moorlands winding its way through Acomb, Hexham, Slaley Forest, Blanchland, Edmundbyers, Castleside, and Lanchester before finishing at the world heritage site of Durham Cathedral.
The section of The Way of Light behind Hepple Hill Cottage takes you across Edmundbyres Common – part of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Beauty. As you leave the cottage turn right as if you are heading to the village. Turn right again at a stony track – here is the information board – and continue along the track. You are now on the marked route. If you look to the left you will see Hepple Hill’s kitchen window!
Who was St Cuthbert?
The Way of Light celebrates the life of St Cuthbert – the patron saint of Northumberland.
Cuthbert was born in 635. He was brought up as a Christian and when he was 17 years old saw a light in the night sky descend to Earth and then return to the heavens with what he believed to be a human soul. It was the same night that Saint Aiden died and from then on Cuthbert dedicated his life to God becoming a trainee monk at the monastery Aiden founded at Melrose in Scotland.
Cuthbert moved to Lindisfarne in his 30s and was a popular figure. He ran the monastery and was seen as a spiritual guide and became known for his spiritual healing. After 10 years he believed he could better serve God by being a hermit and after a short trial on a tiny islet connected to Lindisfarne, he set up a hermitage on Inner Farne. This small island is now an important breeding colony for seabirds and owned by the National Trust – you can reach it by boat from Seahouses. After ten years of solitude, Cuthbert became a bishop and travelled extensively in the north of England. He died in 687 AD and was buried on Lindisfarne.
But of course the story of Cuthbert does not end with his death. In 698, Cuthbert’s tomb on Lindisfarne was reopened and it was discovered that his body had not decomposed in any way. His tomb quickly became a magnet for pilgrims. Miracles reported at his grave became so numerous that Cuthbert was called the ‘Wonder-worker of England’. As a result of these miraculous occurrences, he was canonised as a saint.
In 875 the monks of Lindisfarne fled the monastery and took their most precious possessions with them – including Cuthbert’s body. After a seven year odyssey the monks and their saintly cargo found a home at Durham. St Cuthbert’s shrine is in the cathedral.
Holy island and the Farnes
To follow in St Cuthbert’s footsteps and visit the places where he lived is perfectly possible from your base at Hepple Hill Cottage.
Holy Island or Lindisfarne is a an hour and a half drive from Edmundbyres. It is a straightforward journey up the A1 and takes you in the beautiful landscape of Northumberland. Holy Island is a tidal island so you will need to check the tide times to plan your visit. Every year some poor soul leaves it too late to dash across the causeway and has to be rescued. Tide times can be found here
The Farne Islands are reached from the bustling village of Seahouses (Google maps tells me it is 1 hour and 22 minutes from Edmundbyers). They are a big draw for bird watchers and nature lovers. The Farne Islands are home to 43,000 pairs of puffins and one of the most important grey seal pupping sites in England – around 2,000 pups are born here every autumn.
The island of Inner Farne is now open for landings. It can get a bit pricey as you have to pay a National Trust entrance fee and for your boat trip but if you are going to take a trip up the Northumberland coast during your stay at Hepple Hill Cottage then this is an excellent one. For more information check out the National Trust website and Billy Shiel’s Boat Trips.
